Tuesday 25th June 2013
We have to be out of Uzbekistan today, but we don’t really want to. Shower in a box comes in handy. Crowd of men and youths come out of local houses to have a nose. Somehow our steering wheel makes everybody laugh. The Landie is full of dust, everything is dirty and we chew grit. Hilde has a clean white top on, I brought nothing white. A young man thrusts a warm flat bread in to my hand, but he will not accept payment thrust into his. It is delicious. Eat prison breakfast, bread and water. Drive out of compound,7.30am, into a bustling town. We are now really on the steppes of Central Asia. It is fantastic. People have darker skin and their eyes are becoming narrower. Everyone who smiles or talks to us flashes a mouthful of gold. We see dozens of rollers and LBJ’s with crested heads. Can you look them up for us Martin please? The plains roll away, animals are being grazed and wheat harvested by hand.
We get stopped by road check point. They look at papers and say we are not allowed to go this way. All look at maps. They want us to go back to junction with road to Afghanistan, go done it to Tebriz, back up again. We have not got time. Want to be through border this morning, gain half a day. Guard makes a phone call. He does not refuse money thrust into his hand. Result. First time we had to bribe in 8000kms. Travel on some fantastic tarmac. Drive through bustling markets, saw a little boy going to school and two large colleges. All the rivers are dry, just stoney beds. Bottled water for sale all along roadside, large water melons and bread.
Arrive at border by 10.20 am. Good mornings drive. Blimey, even I break into discussion about Manchester United now. Tim finds a solitary City supporter. Boy offers to wash car, tragic waste of precious water me thinks. Tim and Atle negotiate a diesel deal. Cheeky boys hang onto doors, took their photos. Best not take picture of shepherd’s hut here though. We wait, in heat in car. Tim says this is the first time it would be an advantage for him to wear a wedding ring, they expect to see him with one. I said we should get him one, and he agreed. Tim and Atle talk to Tajik man who has lived in Norway, and bought a LT registered car in Italy. Swop contact details. We ask about GBAO pass for Norwegians. He lives in Dushanbe, we can follow him and he will help. So that blind beggar has been miraculously cured. Praise be. People in car in front start clearing boot. Hope we don’t have to clear car.
Have slight scare over currency. Had to plead ignorance, refill form and say sorry. Then Uzbek lady was lovely. Chatted to Turkish driver, everyone was helpful and smiling. Haven’t seen carbon paper for a long time. Don’t know temp, bit we all melting. Get into Tajikistan at 13.12, just under three hours. Don’t think Atle will be able to get his GBAO permit today, we will find a hotel, rest, get clean and have a nice meal out in Dushanbe.
Just heard from Cornlanders. They are off to the mountains, looking for bears. Great to hear from family, we have a free afternoon, so may have chance to Skype. Tim has just admitted, I’d there was a swimming pool he would jump in. Poor boy, he must be hot.
Paddy fields, straw hats, snow capped mountains, more dust but new roads are being built. Large industrial plant belching acrid smoke. Ice cold rivers from mountains. Chocking on lorry fumes, we can’t get passed. Everywhere there is water, the children are glistening. Stones mark central reservation. Lorry spraying water on road to lay the dust. Onions and apples for sale. Man walking over river on pipe. Tim excited when he see land Rover Discovery 4. People waiting at bus stops, but I see no buses.
Back into a big capital city. Trolley buses. Large apartment blocks, and more being built. Good to be arriving in daylight. Range Rover Evoke, whatever next. Shady boulevades. Wedding boutiques. Parks and fountains and monuments. Arrive at Hotel Tajikistan, full of UN delegates. Our cars are dirtier than theirs.
The Red Cross Discovery parked next to us has a No Guns sticker on windows. Walk into swankiest hotel in the capital of Tajikistan looking like extras from Crocodile Dundee, and we most probably smell a little too. Never mind, our money is as good as anyone’s. Go to bar. I do not feel too good, so go for a lie down. Mr Fix It takes Tim and Atle to get their GBAO and it is sorted instantly. Mr Fix It now Atle’s NBF.
All scrub up well and put our glad rags on. Hilde spoils her sophisticated ensemble by sticking cartoon plasters on her mossie bites. Go out for very disappointing Lebanese dinner, the local wine especially. Did I mention the Belly Dancer? Atle says she is a local girl just jigging about the room. All desperate for down time, but we haven’t got space in our schedule in Tajikistan. Also, suddenly realised that we have hardly spent a moment on our own for weeks, need to build in some me time. All admit to fears before starting out, and none of us thought we would make it, even this far. But we have, bit battered and bruised, but know a lot more about ourself now. Hear 4 lads talking English, but taxi arrives so no time to talk.
We are all extremely tired and head to our rooms. Face time Esme and Claire, want to find out what Esme thought of her new teacher, Mrs Hill. She wouldn’t tell anyone, so we just nattered anyway. Texted Rachel who was still at uni, got her reply in the morning. Very hard beds.