Istanbul city traffic challenging, but safely negotiate our way to bridge over the Bosphorus and into ASIA!!!! Isabel accidentally bought bread from man in fast lane of motorway. Pulled over by Turkish Land Rover driver, who then leads us to shopping mall, where the only supplies we get are Starbuck’s coffee. Shocking. Met young couple from CZ in little Lada Niva 4wd, also travelling to Mongolia. Invite them to join us camping tonight.
Drive over magnificent mountain ranges, with hundreds of bee hives along route. Spectacular sunset. Atle says we are now truly on holiday. Arrive at Black Sea coast in the dark, so not sure what Happy campsite really looks like. Can’t wait to see view from our roof tent in morning.
So what did you do before breakfast this morning? We paddled and watched dolphins playing in the Black Sea. Took most of the beach back into Landy with us. Stuck Ulaanbaatar – Mongolia 2013 (and back) stickers on, thanks Atle. Drove along coast, past holiday resorts, oil rigs, ship yards. Across the bay is Russia, be there soon. Just heard Iran closed borders with Iraq and Turkey. Decide to press on anyway. Land Rover fest, as a lot of military traffic. Hail storm hits just as we stop for lunch, didn’t dent bonnet this time. Too exposed to wild camp, so stayed in hotel in Cankiri. Drank bubbly, need to finish all alcohol before Iran!! Bedding smelt of smoke.
Saturday 15th June 2013 – election results from Iran look very optimistic, moderate cleric in lead. Glad we decided to press on. Vast plains of wheat being harvested, hundreds of storks eating grain, paddy field and crumpled mountains. Feeling more exotic and foreign. Cardboard cut out Police cars. Climb over 2000 m several times. First hotel has no parking , so find Konak Muzlum hotel in Erzincan. Doesn’t serve alcohol, so Atle and I traipse off to buy some beer.
Spa shower woke us up nicely this morning. A lot of violence in Istanbul again last night. Real honey comb at breakfast, Isabel enjoyed it. Good news about Iranian elections, moderate cleric got 51% of votes, nearest rival got 16%, no unrest so they may open border soon. So far, the further East we go, the more civilised. Atle made us laugh with his story in the US lingerie store – too rude to publish, ask me back home! They bought toilet, a bucket with a lid. Discussed if we should share driving, but throttle too stiff and a lot of vibration, so may hurt I’s knee.
Very concerned about border crossing, Isabel less so. All got clothes suitable for Iran ready. Managed land slide holds us up, but well organised. Papers lodged with Turkmenistan Ambassador. Lots of military LRs coming the other way. Intermittent snow tunnels over railway tracks. Sun baked bricks, clay ovens in gardens. Just saw IR lorry on other side, is border open? Was that an Imperial eagle?
BORDER OPEN!!!! We are 300km from Iran. Camouflaged Defender, GB made caravan outside new build. Just covered 5000 kms. A diagnostic kit tells Atle he is running a little hot, he buys expensive fluid for injector. My temp gauge is stuck on cold, I hit it with a screwdriver – sorted. Military tanks heading in opposite direction. Of course. They were all defending the border with Iran.
Drive past snow capped Mt Ararat, very Biblical. Spectacular sunset. Sweep of mountains all around us are in Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran.
Stop 20 kms away, Lurch brings 2 trays of unbidden chai. Very refreshing actually. Change clothes. Should we chuck alcohol now, or keep it in case we don’t get across? Err on side of caution, don’t want to waste it! Sort maps, phrase books, paperwork and currency. Take down ariels, hide cameras and sat navs. Every little village has look out posts, weapons and tanks, and military vehicles guard minor roads. Bit like our border with Wales.
We approach crossing at Bazargan. Nervous, as we have no protection from Embassy or insurance, and no Iranian money. Lorries backed up for many kms because of border closure. They tell us we can drive on. Man in a van supplying meals on wheels. Remember to dump alcohol as Turkish border post looms, hopefully someone will make use of it. Enjoy! No turning back now.