Saturday 13th July 2013
Mongolia – moving on to Biger and beyond
All sleep in, so late start. Weather overcast and we feel spots of rain. Tim and I borrow their shower tent, wash and get into clean clothes. Makes such a difference. If we can mend our solar shower, we will put up our own curtain beneath the tent, and be more self sufficient. We both set up our new washing machines, which get strapped to our roof, as The Beast sways about more than Hildefender!!!! We need to decant more clean water today.
Hilde’s car has a flat battery, so jump leads are needed. Atle straightens awning poles. Some rivets are replaced. Where shall we go today? Last night we were discussing plans. We are so privileged to have seen the Nadaam, and the Saiga Antelopes already. Mongolia is so huge, we cannot possibly go everywhere. We have to choose carefully. Just as Astrid and Olav are catching up, they get caught at the Mongolian border. Not sure whether it was already closed for the night, or shut for the days of Nadaam.
Another email from the British Embassy in Ullaanbaatar. They do not take delivery of parcels, but DHL have a local depot. Thank you. Nothing from the Chinese Embassy. We will have to get there soon.
A lizard scurries out of a hole. Camels wander. We soon get on to main road. Drive in light drizzle, which keeps the dust down. Scenery changes, less arid, more green. Hilde borrowed out fly swat last night, wonder where it is? This road is really agitating the washing. Good. Flock of cranes, just standing forlornly. Altay Airport coming up on our right. ATC tower empty. No planes.
Two boys sheltering under large rainbow coloured umbrella. As we get fuel, I look for pen and paper to note the mileage. The suntan lotion bottle has exploded. Spend a mind numbing half hour cleaning it up.
Atle finds out where he can get the welding done. When we arrive, many of the people we have met on the way, are already here. The Canadians have got a puncture. The convertible nearly tips over, with the children in it. The family may change their plans. Too much driving for the children, they have finished all their books and only one of the Nintendo are working. Bored kids doesn’t make for good times. Ship vehicle home early, they carry on, a faster holiday. The French couple in the blue Landy, some more French from the Mongolian border crossings. Everyone is pleased to meet up again, and catch up whilst having repairs done to their vehicles. This garage was obviously busy during the 2012 Mongol Rally.
As work is being done on the Hildefender, we have the Beast washed. One man comes up to Tim, and snatches the glasses off his nose. Tim laughs. He knows the man thinks they are sunglasses, as the lens is dark. He tries to swop, putting on Tim’s pair, and nearly falls over as he loses all recognisable sight. He tears them off and hands them back, laughing.
Hilde and I find a shop, buy some stuff. The French see we have bread, and squeal!!! They run in and buy up all the remaining stock. Make savoury butties, on sweet bread – again. When will I learn?
The Beast is finished. She looks beautiful, all shiny and blue. I point out one of the back tyres. Puncture. Large nail still embedded. Atle has their car washed, and we have our wheel changed.
Rain has continued, it is now 3pm. Do we head further south, to the Gobi Desert, where the weather may be warmer and drier? It is cold and wet all over Northern Mongolia, and in Ullaan Baatar. To think they are having a heat wave at home. Oh well.
Puddles everywhere. Wheels spin as we try to leave garage. Head to Biger, where the weather should be better. One of the French men told us the Northern Route road has completely disappeared. Glad we were not dependent on that.
Look for ATM. Find bank, but it’s a Saturday. Have dollars if necessary. Crack on windscreen getting bigger. Very different driving conditions now, wet and muddy. Last heavy rain in Bulgaria. Our lovely clean Landy. Heating on, drying wet clothes we are wearing.
This detour is one Jacek recommended. It means we see some famous rock paintings. This part should then take us five days to reach Ullaanbaatar, go to Chinese Embassy on Friday 18th, and hopefully meet up with Astrid and Olav.
Soon off route, should be further left. As we change direction, out of the mist appear the telegraph poles. Now driving in low range with diff lock in. Truck slides downhill towards us, with car on back. Road narrows and visibility worsens. Not many photo opportunities. Hilde tells us our exhaust has shaken loose. Stop and repair.
Colder weather, six degree, gives mossie bites time to cool down. If I get bored, I might try to count them. Have over 100 just below each knee. May be try to put wedding ring back on soon.
2,600ms. We crest a peak, and better weather greets us ahead. Sunshine even. Mountain range after mountain range, getting bigger the further back they go. Notice less puddles, and no rain. Is this good, or does it mean the rain is following us?
Confuse camels, who watch us drive past on their right, wrong side of hill, back again, then pass on their left. 180kms may take a long time today. Must be rush hour. We meet four cars. Either that, or weekend drivers. Some layers of rock in the cliff faces are bright red. Sun lights up large patches of earth ahead. Low cloud, but no rain now.
We twist and turn across the steppe. The scenery is never less than breathtaking. Slow up for a tiny puddle. Laugh. It had looked like a deep rut, which at this speed would have caused major damage. Tim keeps having sneaky scratches of his bites. I hit him with the fly swot, which had been returned by Hilde last night.
Biger ahead, a tiny speck on the landscape. We reach it at 18.40. Not bad, 3h 40 mins. We slow right down. Little boy in glasses – haven’t seen that in weeks. Even travelling at this speed, we are through in less than a minute. Plan to stop within half and hour. Or so. A hare sized animal, with enormous ears, darts across the track. Desert hare maybe?
Heading towards Chandmani. This is such exciting navigation. We all need to be using every map and device we have. Routes which look like obvious roads on the printed map, are often just a suggestion of one track amongst many. The GPS systems often show a road running out, and the poor old sat nav sometimes loses herself completely. If ever we stray a little, nobody blames anyone else or gets precious if their route is questioned.
Aim for mountains, somewhere to hide. From what? From whom? Apart from the two villages, we have only seen two dozen gers, and that was hours age. Maybe I mean somewhere to shelter.
A new camp rule was decided last night. Always, always, always peg the awning down. Also last night, until we were sure there were no biting beasties, I wore Atle’s big walking boots which came half way up my calves. Couldn’t get my feet in my own.
Spot an outcrop. Very steep ruts, higher than the cars. We traverse them all. Set up camp. No wind. No Rain. No mossies.
Use the sat phone to call Cornlanders. Spoke to Ned first. Saw no bears, but had great holiday. Catherine and I had long chat, swopped stories, experiences and both agreed that the vast majority of people are kind, helpful, honest and live a good life. Phoned Claire, but no answer.
After dinner, talking about all the travellers we have met, Tim commented that no other outfit had a roof tent. “Let’s be honest about it. The others were all too old or too fat!!” Say it as it is, Atle.