Wednesday 10th July 2913
First Down Day in Mongolia
Well I knew before I went to sleep that my eye would be all puffed up. I had been bitten all over my face, my right eye was nearly shut and I looked like a rotten potato. Deep joy. Hilde invites me to use their shower tent. I even use the no water shampoo, put on a whole set of clean clothes and feel a bit more human. Spend the rest of the day swathed in loose clothing and a borrowed mossie hat. Remember the Hiking Heidi doll, girls?
Tim and Atle spend the morning working on the cars. Oil changes, checking air and fuel filters, tightening hand brakes and trying to sort low range. Hilde and I would normally do the washing, but we have a new rule for this country. We don’t sweat so much, so we won’t wash clothes so much. Instead, we sit in the shade and catch up with the blog.
Hilde says, “Imagine writing a book up here.” I am. It’s now noon, I make more coffee, and since we got up this morning there have been only four vehicles driving along the valley below us. We can see no habitation, animals or anybody moving. Large white clouds hang about lazily. Every now and then a breeze whips up. We hold down airborne objects, and look behind us. Check the weather. That is where the storm came from last night.
We all sort things out, pack away books and maps of countries and cultures already visited. Exciting new materials are ready for a planning session after lunch. Where to next? We may stay here all day, faffing and furtling. Or we may move on and drive a few hours. We’ll see.
What are those little birds with a barred tail? Feels strange under this hat. Can hear mossies very close, but they don’t get my head or face. They do manage to bite through my tropical clothes though, so that is very rude. The sneakiest bites are the ones you get when you go to the bush toilet.
We have lunch. Tim insists we take multi vitamin tablets. I think we are doing alright. Today we have eaten fresh apple, kiwi fruit and yoghurt, tinned sardines, oat cakes, tomatoes and half a pink grapefruit each. I take a tablet anyway.
Tim and Atle bury our rubbish. Hard work as they keep hitting stones. The used oil has been decanted into three empty water containers, and strapped to the outside of the cars. They look like jet packs. We leave at 4.30 pm. Plan a short drive to Knovd, the largest town in the area. It has many Manchu remains, tree lined streets and a university. It is only 42kms away, but we hope to get into a hotel tonight.
We soon become a dust blur on the road. I nurse my eye with a cold pack, feels delicious. As we cross the steppes, we see the 20 kms horse race, part of the Nadaam. Young boys are galloping bare back, urging their horse on. Proud parents are following on motorbikes, or in cars. Hope we are in time for the end of the race.
Soon crest a hill, and see Knovd sprawling below. As we approach, we see hundreds of gers pitched on the outskirts. Thousands of animals are around, some roaming free and some corralled. Huge birds of prey circling, are they trained? Cross over a bridge, where the cows rule. We go at their pace. At the other end of the bridge we are stopped, the cars disinfected again, for which we have to pay 500 of the local currency. Tim puts the pass into his wallet. We have been told that you must carry copies of all paperwork with you at all times in Mongolia.
This is amazing. Gers further into town look more permanent. Everybody is dressed in their best. Women stroll along in long dresses, carrying parasols and waving at us. The younger women all have their wrists showing. We pull up outside a hotel, The Grand, but it is not the one we are looking for. A helpful Policeman blows his whistle and motions us to move on. There are many merry people staggering about.
Tim and Hilde walk and find the Hotel Buyant. The receptionist has to be woken. We choose the best rooms, double bed, sitting room with chaise langue and water cooler, bathroom with toilet which flushes all night and hot water from 18:00 to 22:00. £27. Drank a beer from fridge then headed out on the town.
Got 100m down the drag, and saw a restaurant lively and full. An American popped his head out of the window and invited us in. He and another American girl were working for the Peace Corps. They chatted to us, then helped us with out choice of menu. The recommended chicken soup with bowls of rice was not available, although we did see it being served to some locals. They had obviously ordered before us. So we chose spicy hot meat served on a sizzling griddle, with a bowl of plain rice. The most delicious meal we have bought out in weeks. We also spoke to a young Frenchman and his Belgian friend. They had bought two horses, intending to ride all over Mongolia. The Frenchman’s horse was grumpy, and threw him. So they sold the horses and bought motorbikes. The Frenchman promptly fell off and broke his wrist. But he said ” Hey. I’m still in Mongolia.”
As we are heading to bed, locals are just coming out and the place gets rammed. Everybody is out on the streets and music is being played loudly. We are not sure if the hotel serves breakfast, so arrange to meet at 9am. All dash to shower. There are two settings. Freezing cold or boiling hot. We jump in and out under a lethal trickle.